Backstory
This story started four years ago when I moved to Seattle in 2016. Back then, I wasn't the most "athletic" person. I was new to hiking and oblivious of my abilities and limits. Not knowing how difficult it would be to hike 20 miles in a day, I confidently accepted my friend Prashant's invite to thru-hike The Enchantments. This was a perfect example of the phrase "Ignorance is bliss.". If I knew how difficult it was going to be, I would have definitely chickened out.
The hike took me to one of the most beautiful places I had seen in my life. It was the most challenging thing I had done in my life, and I hated every step of it. I couldn't climb stairs for a week after. Nevertheless, the place enchanted me enough to keep coming back every year that followed. I did the 20 mile thru-hike three years in a row, getting stronger every time.
The best way to experience the enchantments is to stay overnight (ideally a few days), but these permits are near impossible to come by. Only a handful of people picked through a lottery system get this opportunity. The success rate is ~1.9% (for the core zone).
For the past 4 years, along with thousands of other Washingtonians, I optimistically applied for the lottery and obviously... failed. Last year (2019), one of my friends Archita got lucky with the permits. I waited all year to finally make my dream a reality, but a snowstorm hit right before our trip. The terrain was impossible to navigate, forcing us to retreat.
Expectation v/s Reality 2019.
2020 has been a rather downer for the most part, but guess what - my friend got lucky again! Yes, two years in a row. But hey, it isn't 2020 until something goes wrong, is it? A few weeks before the trip, I sprained my ankle. A few days before our trip, another storm dumped a foot of snow in the mountains. I was left dreading the possibility of another failed attempt, but I was determined to give it everything I had.
Day 1. Colchuck Lake TH to Aasgard Pass
The anticipated day arrived - my ankle felt stable, and trip reports indicated fast melting snow. After dreaming of this trip for four years, I was thrilled! It was a cold September morning and we started hiking with our heavy packs with a long 7 miles and 4800 feet ahead of us.
Map and Elevation Profile
Pro Tip: I use CalTopo to plan all my hikes. I can add lines on the trail I'm planning to take and get details such as elevation profile, slope grade etc.
The first section of this hike until we reach the lake was relatively uneventful. Colchuck Lake, however, is a sight you can't forget. No matter how many times I see the lake, the scale of the landscape and the rugged peaks around always blow my mind. The hardest part of our hike would start from here - Aasgard Pass.
Three people in our group would be facing the wrath of Aasgard Pass for the first time. The "trail" is obscure, and you have to find your way up a faint boot path over loose dirt and boulders. It was just the beginning of the day, and everyone was in high spirits, ready to tackle the challenge. After having a quick lunch at the lake, we began skirting the lake to the bottom of the pass. One of my favorite parts about this section is the stream that's running all the way through - which means, we don't have to carry a lot of water and can refill along the way.
The hike instantly turned into boulder hopping. I love jumping over rocks and finding my way! After years of practice, walking on uneven terrain has become second nature to me. However, this time was different. Having sprained my ankle pretty bad earlier, I had to be deliberate with every step I took. I couldn't afford to hurt it again.
The crew heading up Aasgard - Bhargav, Nitish, Swapnil, Archita (L->R)
The way up is relentless and doesn't get easy at any point. Every once in a while, we'd lose the trail and debate which 'pile of rocks' would be easier to navigate. I enjoyed all the scrambling so much - all the awkward moves using both hands, butt scooting, and root pulling. 2500 feet of moving on uneven terrain can start to get to you, especially with 35 pounds of weight on your back. Everyone's terrible jokes definitely helped us get through!
As we got closer to the top, we were inching closer to sunset, and snow had started to appear on the trail. I could sense that people began to get exhausted. We kept pushing, hoping we'd get to the other side of the pass before dark.
Pro Tip: On a long hike, snacking along the way can really help. It helps keep your energy levels up and stay focussed. Also, what better excuse to eat chocolate?
Almost at the top - looking back down on Colchuck Lake
By the time we reached the top of the pass, darkness had fallen upon us. My original plan was to hike a mile further in and set up camp. The night made route fining and snow travel much harder. Everyone was exhausted, and we decided to hunker down at the first piece of flat ground we found. Running on borrowed energy from our already depleted sources, we managed to heat water and shove some dehydrated food down our throats. The tiredness didn't stop us from mocking each other and laughing our asses off around the dinner table. This was far from the 'warm summer night' that I dreamt of, but we woke up to a gorgeous sunrise in the morning. Things only got better from here. :)
Day 2. The gold rush
On day two, I was up at the crack of dawn and went for a walk around camp. The snow had hardened overnight, creating the 'munching on chips' sound effect as I walked through the snow. After inspecting the surroundings, I was sure we could hike further in and find snow-free spots. I don't like going through the hassle of moving camp for a 3-day trip, but none of us was enjoying the frozen campsite. Soon after breakfast and coffee, we packed up and started hiking. About a mile in, we found the perfect spot - a dry flat area big enough to fit 3 tents tucked in golden larches. My heart was screaming in joy. With Prussik Peak on one side and McClellan on the other, I couldn't have asked for a prettier spot.
Pro-Tips for picking a good campsite:
Find a flat piece of land to avoid rolling onto your tent mate at night.
Make sure you have a water source nearby - cooking uses a lot of water, and you need to hydrate!
Figure out the toilet situation - if available, make sure you have a toilet nearby and find it. Don't go looking for it when you need it desperately.
This goes without saying, but make sure you have good views from your tent - when you are convincing yourself to get out of your warm sleeping bag at sunrise, it helps if you can enjoy the views from the comfort of your tent.
We got fortunate with the weather! It was warm all day, and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. As always, I wanted to jump into one of the icy cold lakes. It hurts for a minute, but once you get numb, the feeling is so relaxing. Convincing the rest of the people to join me is hard. Over the years, I've managed to create a small army of cold-water brave-souls. This time was different - we had 100% participation in icy-water suffer-fest! Hi-5! Refreshed from the swim, we decided to explore the other lakes in the area.
As you walk through the golden forests and pristine lakes, you can only wonder how the landscape can keep getting more beautiful. We had only one day to explore, but each of these lakes deserves a full day for itself. My favorite of them all is Perfection Lake. There is a beautiful larch covered trail that runs all along the lake's edge, and the water is crystal clear! The Enchantments is a paradise for scramblers - there are so many peaks that can be climbed and endless opportunities for off-trail exploration. If I could come back, I'd spend a whole week!
We made our way back to camp in time for dinner. The #1 dinner conversation while camping is how bad most dehydrated food tastes, followed by exchanging good backpacking meal ideas. We also spent a good amount of time making fun of each other - that's what perfectly normal friends do, right? One discussion I remember clearly is a pact that we made to stay in shape and repeat this hike when we're 60 (I hope everyone remembers that). As we talked and laughed, we watched the sky go from blue to every shade of pink and orange I could imagine.
The cotton candy skies eventually gave way to twinkling stars and a full moon that lit up the landscape. I loved the idea of sleeping without a tent so I could stargaze all night, but I always chickened out because - "what if an animal walked up to me and sniffed me in the middle of the night?" The flat slab we were sitting on felt perfect to sleep on. Even though we had already set up tents, I put forth the suggestion and three brave campers decided to join in.
It felt so pristine and freeing to sleep outside. The weather was perfect - cold, but not freezing. There wasn't a whiff of wind. Every time I woke up (because I kept rolling off my sleeping pad), I stared at the thousands of stars until I fell asleep again.
Pro Tip: If you find yourself in dry cool weather, definitely try sleeping without a tent. You can thank me later :)
Day 3. Goat to go
Mountain sunrises are magical! My favorite thing about sleeping outside is the morning energy. I wake up, wash my face with fresh cold water from a stream, sip some coffee while I feel the first rays of sunshine hit my face. The moment is meditative.
Right as I was enjoying the quiet moment, a mountain goat walked by and surveyed our campsite searching for signs of pee. Yes, human urine. Goats love the salt and have become habituated with humans visiting the area. After licking some of the ground, the goat continued to walk to the next campsite in search for more 'salt'. It is hilarious and gross at the same time.
We had a good laugh and began packing up our tents. This was our last day and we had to head back. It is normal to assume that the way down would be easy, but getting down Aasgard Pass felt just as exhausting. We played 'find the trail' on our way down as well and somehow ended up taking a completely different path down.
What an exhilarating experience! Our legs hurt, our minds were exhausted, but we were filled with joy from head to toe. After four years of dreaming, I was absolutely heart-warmed to have made this trip possible and shared this happiness with so many others. That leap of faith I took four years ago brought me so much joy! Would I leap again? Hell, yeah!
Resources
My Summer Backpacking List: https://lighterpack.com/r/bzjyhy
My favorite backpacking food: https://backpackerspantry.com/products/three-cheese-mac-cheese (Calorie dense, reliable neutral taste, and there aren't any masalas in it to screw up)
its like.. i was there